Day 4

My vacation has official begun. Yesterday was the transition period. But today was all vacation!

I started it off by crossing an item off my old/boring/30 list.

  • Learn to surf.

Growing up in the NW, I didn’t have the opportunity to learn how to surf. I could have gone on the Oregon coast but the water is frigid and I’ve seen sharks in the water. I’d like to keep all my limbs, thank you very much. Yes, there are sharks in Puerto Rico but they aren’t Great White Sharks.

My quest to learn how to surf brought me to Rincon. The sleepy town is surfing’s Woodstock thanks to a championship in the 1960s that changed the entire sport. Rincon is also one of the top ten surfing spots in the world, so if you’re going to learn, why not?

I checked into Surf 787, a surfing school and villa for adults. I was the only guest so I ended up with private lessons. Roger, the instructor, had me out the door and on the sand by 9. The beach was beautiful and most of the local surfers knew Roger well – always a good sign. Before getting in the water, he went through some safety instructions and I discovered that I am not goofy footed like I always thought. Which explains why I have such a hard time snowboarding.

Roger was quick to tell me that surfing is one of the hardest board sports to learn and that there was no way I could master it in one day. Which makes me happy because I like to have to work at things. Strike that. I like having hope that I will  one day master something. If I completely fail the first time and have a horrible time doing it, there’s no way I’ll try it again.

I had an absolute blast. I was ashamed of myself for having given up on swimming. Paddling was harder than it should have been. What happened to the girl who could swim a mile? Those days are uncomfortably far behind me. Roger was super encouraging and kept pushing me. Literally.

I got two drops in and was congratulated by one of the local surfers. Which made me quite happy.

I hear Texas has some good waves for beginner surfers….

One Response to “Day 4”
  1. awesome, Caitlin! HOpe you are having a great time!

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